Fuchsia Sight-Seeing

Malaysia On the trail of the fuchsia.

Malaysia is a land of many contrasts. It's a federated kingdom of thirteen states and three federal territories divided between Peninsular Malaysia, rising north from Singapore just off the Equator towards Thailand, and Eastern Malaysia across the South China Sea, stretching along the northern coast of the island of Borneo. It's also a multi-ethnic and multi-cultural home to Malays, Chinese and Indians, and a number of others. Malaysia has an amazingly high level of biodiversity, as well. Two-thirds of the country is covered by forests, some thought to be 130-million years old. No dinosaurs have been found lurking there, at least ones yet discovered, but there are so many other rare plants and animals it might take a long time to even notice a few wayward allosaurs.

This trip was to peninsular Malaysia. Most of its land is fairly low in elevation and the coastal plains ringing the country stretch inwards for over fifty miles. In fact, over 1,400 square miles (3,700 square km) of it are mangrove swamps. The climate is steamy, humid and decidedly tropical. There are not one, but two rainy seasons. One on the west coast and another on the the east and they overlap slightly. With dew points reaching almost 80° F (27° C) at times, it's hot! Not exactly the sort of climate fuchsias find comfortable.

However, elevations do exist. One extensive area in the State of Pahang is called the Cameron Highlands. Each of it's three main towns, strung together by a central highway that bisects the province, are at an elevation of over 3,900 feet (1,200 meters). The temperatures are very comfortable up there. In the daytime, they rarely rise above 77° F (25° C) and can fall to about 54° F (12° C) at night. Starting in the 1920's, under British colonial rule, the Highlands' gentle, mildly temperate climate attracted some development. Tea plantations and resorts, often built in a faux-Tudor style by homesick colonialists, were established.Today, its character is changing but, even with the advent of air conditioning, people are still drawn to the area, still seeking to escape the often oppressive humidity of the lowlands

So…Fuchsias in Malaysia? Let's see. Former British rule? Lush, green countryside in the mountains? Gardened hill stations established by homesick colonialists? Legends have it that there might just be a lost Shangri-La of fuchsias nestled in these hills. It's certainly worth mounting an expedition to see if there's any truth behind the tales. After all, if there's the slightest chance of finding any growing in steamy Malaysia, it's surely going to be in this benign, upland climate. On the Trail of the Fuchsia in the Cameron Highlands, then!

Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands: On the Trail of the Fuchsia
Malaysia's a federal constitutional monarchy and the fourteen-point star above the shield represents its thirteen
component states, with one extra point for the federal territories The arms are supported by two Malayan tigers.
Kuala Lumpur sits in the middle of an urban conglomeration of over 7 million people.
Its iconic Petronas Towers were the tallest buildings in the world from 1998 to 2004.
KL dates to the 1850s, when laborers of the Malay Chief of Klang landed at the confluence of the
Sungai Lumpur, or Muddy River, and the Sungai Klang. Looking a little less muddy today, though.
The Royal Selangor Club, founded in 1884, is near Dataran Merdaka, or Independence Sq.
The British left polo behind but no fuchsias here. Way too steamy and hot in KL’s tropical climate.
The gardener’s on break, it seems, but was working on a Loropetalum rubrum. Looks like
the cultivar ‘Zhuzhou Fuchsia.’ If you squint. Where there’s a will for fuchsias, there’s a way.
The streets of KL, like those of many of Malaysia’s towns and cities, really jump alive
at night. I suppose it’s considered cooler then? Not much, really, but lots more fun!
The Petronas Towers also come alive after dark as well and are their
most brilliant best when they sparkle and shine over the nighttime city.
Pasar malams, or night markets, are a prominent feature of
Malaysian shopping. This one passes alongside the Central Market.
Another larger one on Jalan Petaling is NOT to be missed. It has something for everyone,
from household goods to watches and handbags to tempting meals served right off the fiery grill.
Malaysia is a multi-cultural country with a number of religions.
Many beautiful and ornate Hindu temples grace its cities and towns.
Colorful sculptures illuminate the Hindu religion and beliefs
as they seem to climb from the top of the temple to the sky.
Vendors string together ubiquitous garlands that adorn the necks of Hindus on religious
and social occasions. Many beautiful flowers but, alas, no fuchsias on these beautiful strings.
Chinese temples abound. Here, an auspicious bat (Fu 蝠), symbol of good fortune & happiness, brings
a coin (Qian 钱) of wealth & prosperity. An omen that fuchsias are on the way, I think!
Spirals of incense waft and wind, lending a somnabulous,
otherworldly experience to the Chinese temples’ interiors.
Flower venders sell small, colorful bouquets. Now, not all
these flowers are tropical. Hmm? That’s interesting…
Whoa. These bouquets certainly make a
statement. But which one? Ha ha ha.
“Hairy eyeballs.” From the presentation of a peeled one atop the pile,
that’s what we took to calling these rambutans. Delicious, though.
Oh, boy. It’s hot. It’s humid. The dew point is 78°F. OK. That’s REALLY hot and humid! But
here’s fresh and cool guava juice. In pink no less. Love the vendor’s coordinated outfit.
The Art Deco Central Market was built in 1928. For many years,
it was the home of the city's largest fresh produce and wet market.
Since 1986, it’s housed over 130 arts and crafts shops. It also hosts
regular cultural performances on the riverside stage, as well.
Exquisite batiks, produced in various areas around Malaysia & Indonesia, are on sale.
Malaysian batik is especially noted for its geometrical designs, such as spirals.
The Old Town White Coffee shop, inside the Central
Market, holds a tantalizing surprise on its menu.
A Fuchsia Fizz! Well, it’s not konini juice in the concoction but grenadine. Hope
springs eternal, though, that the ol' Fu-Qian is starting to work its good fortune.
The Kraftangan Malaysia features diverse Malaysian artists in residence,
as well as a gift shop packed full of arts & crafts unique to the country.
Artists actually work—and sell—from these lovely studio cottages
which are set around several acres of the Kraftangan complex.
Even the kids spend the day with their parents in this village of artists.
Looks like someone’s getting a nifty new bike for being helpful.
Leaving KL, it’s off to the Cameron Highlands in Pahang State. At higher elevations, lots of
things grow there that would quickly keel over in lowland heat and humidity. Maybe even…
Whoa! A giant strawberry!? Yes, it’s cooler up here all right. Local farms have made
greenhouse-grown strawberries a surprising specialty. A cult almost. Just wait.
Years ago, these hills held mostly tea plantations. Increasingly, it’s greenhouses running
up the slopes, especially in the northern end of the Highlands, rather than tea shrubs.
More and more are added to slake the taste for strawberries, and other cool-
climate crops. Unfortunately, it also means that more forests are cleared from more hillsides.
I fear that the impact on the environment, especially the unimpeded run-off from
more and more naked slopes, certainly won’t be good in the long term. Sigh.
At Kampung Raja, one of the towns on the road through the Highlands, you become really
aware of hundreds of Pleistocene-age jeeps, forgotten by time, in this farm valley.
Spread along the side of the road, one of the
destination farm stands attracting visitors from the cities.
It’s here that it also strikes home that some kind of theme is developing.
A red theme. A red theme along the lines of a small red fruit.
It’s a strawberry cult! Strawberry souvenirs abound. Name it and it’s available in strawberry.
Strawberry earmuffs, anyone? Balls? They stop here in busloads for all things strawberry.
Oh, yes, that’s exactly what you think it is.
A strawberry bolster pillow!
Strawberry mania comes at you from all sides. Inescapable. Poor tea boxes cower in
the middle, elbowed out of their old home by the insatiable taste for strawberries.
Can’t get enough? Well, there’s shop after shop willing to
meet all your strawberry needs in this strip mall. Wha ha ha.
Finally. Something real. “Strabery Coklats” [sic]. Strawberries on a stick, stuck
into half a head of cabbage, no less. Now that’s an ingenious use of the head.
Selamat Datang. Welcome. All of the way at the end, past the
bused hoards clamoring for strawberry, actual live plants great you.
Inside, you can see what the fuss is all about. Even do some self plucking…
Err… I guess they mean pick your own. Or pluck your own, at least.
Here, the strawberries are grown in pots hanging
overhead, if you have a hankering to take home a live plant.
Or in grow bags on long racks with automatic watering and feeding
systems. Technologically, it’s some very sophisticated farming.
HOWEVER, the taste for strawberry wasn’t really what brought us be up this way.
Legend has it that another unusual plant lies hidden in this valley
Bingo! They might be hiding from the strawberry’s revelries, but sharp eyes
soon bring two living, breathing fuchsias into focus. Even without flowers.
Soon followed by a couple more, this time with flowers.
An indistinct red & white cultivar, something like ‘Snowcap.’ But not.
Is that all? Are the legends of a Fuchsia-La hidden high in the highland peaks just legends?
Looking around the harvested greenhouse, maybe it’s time for this expedition to move on.
Next stop: Taman Unc Sam. Yes, the name’s what you think it is.
Uncle Sam’s Garden! In the Cameron Highlands, no less. Whodathunk?
Salamat Datang. Welcome again inside another destination nursery drawing buses
from the hot and humid lowland cities to the cool and comfortable highlands.
Stop! On the ramp. A gaggle of those red and white pseudo-‘Snowcaps.’
I do wish things were properly labeled. (Spoiler Alert: They'll never be!)
And more massed further up.
They’re not unattractive at all, whatever they are. Well grown, too. I’d bring a dozen
back with me. In the coastal towns, though, they’ll be treated as temporary annuals.
I wish that could identify them. Perhaps one of those generic, serial uprights, like the
types pumped out of Holland’s industrial, commercial greenhouses for the florist trade?
No, those aren’t red-blossomed jade plants over there. The nurseries
just have a habit of attaching bright ribbons to attract your attention.
Some fuchsias have also been potted into larger conatiners. I wonder if the juxtaposition’s intentional?
“Hanging Fuchsia Begonia Lantern” is an alternative name for fuchsias in Chinese!
And they've even been placed in decorative
containers as helpful serving suggestions.
There are, of course, lots of other attractive plants
being offered at Unc Sam's Garden, such as beautiful orchids,
But one other specialty of the region seems to be cacti. In fact, there's another
destination nursery actually called Cactus Valley just down the road in Brinchang.
You can see, from the cell-phone camera in
hand, that the local tourists just love 'em, too.
Who can blame them? Rows of blazing red Gymnocalycium
heads certainly do make attractive, eye-catching displays.
Uh oh, someone seems fascinated by the strawberry stuff.
Worn down, I suppose, by the temptation to fit in.
Oh, nooooo… Not that strawberry knit cap! Ack.
That'll certainly get double takes on the streets of Manhattan this winter.
So. It's Saturday night and this farm worker seems eager to hit Brinchang.
The trouble is lots of bus people are also eager to hit the town for the weekend.
It’s a big amount of traffic for such a small place.
Brightly colored tour buses crowd in all over the place.
There doesn't seem enough room to house everyone. There are
a bunch of creaky old hotels harking back to by-gone days of tea plantations,
Interspersed with strawberry shops, of course, just in case
you're seized by an uncontrollable urge for a Strawberry Moment.
Now, I said there are a lot of tour buses bringing in a lot of lowland city folk,
But you really need to see them all lined up, in neat rows, to get the full feeling
for just what a draw the Cameron Highlands are. Especially brash Brinchang.
It's complete with huge, new resort hotels towering over the town.
Capped in an odd faux-Tudor style to reflect the glories of teas past, I guess.
Brinchang's night market, like most of those in Malaysia, is
pretty rockin'. Even a bit of cool mountain rain can't dampen the fun.
Umbrellas simply pop out of nowhere to take the drizzle in stride.
For those inclined to take their stride on the
strawberry side, what else? Strawberry umbrellas!
The night market offers regular things, too. This is the greenhouse
belt so plants also make an appearance on many of the tables.
And, hiding out there, what do I find? Bet you can't guess? Ha ha.
But these are just the teasers…. Where is this legendary Fuchsia-La?
Food's to be had, too. Try the roasted corn. It tastes as good as it smells.
If the vendor's distracted texting at the moment, he’ll perk right up if you look tempted!
Cactus Valley the next morning. "Hey, come on, it's open and we have to beat the
crowds." Legends say Fuchsia-La? In Cactus Valley? Go figure. Hope my sources are right.
See what I said about the crowds. Geesh. Turn around and
there are ten cars in the parking lot. Onward intrepid plant hunters!
Strings of bright hanging lanterns might be a good omen (remember the Fu-Qian?)
that Hanging Lantern Flowers are nearby. (Hey, stop laughing team members!)
Inside, Cactus Valley soon lives up to its name, at least.
Cacti abound and abound and abound.
Potted ones are grouped on raised beds, some
attractively arrayed in rows, and even in circles and swirls.
And they spread out into several rooms of the complex.
Of course, all the cacti at Cactus Valley are also for sale,
So visitors can go home, undisappointed, carrying the most attractive specimens.
Carefully, of course. These are still prickly cacti, after all, and need some respect.
Paths meander, up ramps and stairs, and along
terraces within this extensive village of greenhouses.
Quite a number of other plants, such as this
beautiful lavender hibiscus, are also on display.
The complex is built on two terraced slopes and eventually the way climbs up
and out onto an observation deck, complete with a giant red Gymnocalycium. Illuminated!
The view towards downtown Brinchang isn't that great, though,
but does make it obvious how much the town has been worked over.
The Cactus Valley complex covers the side of one slope,
bridges over a small valley between, and continues up the other side.
The view from the bridge is far greener and prettier than
it was from the wacky observation cactus perched above.
It was on this bridge, over to the second slope,
that things really started to get interesting.
Yes, it is. I've passed to the other side! A LARGE red & white
fuchsia greets those who make it here. Maybe the legends are true?
Unfortunately, the gatekeeper is that same, mysterious red & white
pseudo-'Snowcap, first spotted along the road into the Highlands.
From here, the fuchsias spread out, first hanging in baskets in a sort of grand foyer
of fuchsias, with chairs and benches for those who want to sit and rest beneath them.
These are full, lush hanging baskets. Hard to believe after experiencing the
steamy side of Malaysia, but here they are. And well grown, too.
Again, the flowers are a bit of a mystery. Familiar, yet not. This is the Land of the Lost,
it seems. If you have any helpful ideas, please use the "Contact Me" button down below!
More hanging fuchsias of Cactus Valley.
Some more hanging fuchsias of Cactus Valley.
Yet more hanging fuchsias of Cactus Valley.
Further hanging fuchsias of Cactus Valley.
And even more hanging fuchsias of Cactus Valley.
Freshly potted cuttings patiently wait their
turns on neat lines tucked under the plant tables.
As said, the fuchsias are obviously well tended. In fact, here's their chief keeper.
He came from Bangladesh to work in the Highlands and has a brother in New Jersey no less. Small world.
Like the cacti houses on the opposite slope, there are
several linked terraces that meander up this slope as well.
With the added bonus that this side is primarily devoted to fuchsias. They flank the
steps and tumble luxuriantly down the terrace walls. Mixed in with some tomatoes, no less.
I was thinking 'Marinka,’ based on the color and shape of the leaves.
But the flowers? Hmm? Again, not quite sure.
Feeling a little like Alice in Wonderland fallen down a fuchsia hole.
Or do I mean up? It’s a topsy-turvy world in this fuchsia paradise.
The begonia-fuchsia connection again. It must be a Chinese thing because
of the name associatiom. Remember that "Hanging Fuchsia Begonia Lantern?"
Fuchsia begonias, meet begonia begonias.
The terraces lead up and around and conform themselves along the curve of the slope.
With each bend and turn, the trail reveals some new new delights.
Shrubs are set directly into the underlying ground of the raised beds.
And grow happily and unrestricted.
Benches and stools are also conveniently disposed
along the way so that wanderers can sit and ponder.
It’s a bright, cheery world and one could easily get lost in thought sitting here.
Mossy highlights soften the hard stone of the walls under these flowers.
I know what you’re thinking. No, it’s not ‘La Campanella.’
Similar, but the tube on this one’s way too long.
Raised beds stuffed with mixed fuchsias undulate back,
and forth along the walls and outer edges of this terrace.
An island bed along the middle
is topped with red & whites.
They're repeated along the inner side.
A close-up inspection.
With other colors also tucked in here and there.
Aha! They finally snuck in something identifiable.
This has got to be a F. magellanica hybrid.
A few hanging baskets curtain the outer side.
OK. I'm back to thinking this is 'Marinka.'
What do you think?
Up the stairs to the next terrace and you can
see the back of the shrubs hanging down the wall.
Another magellanica hybrid.
Fuchsias are aditionally set around the terraces in large pots
There it is again.
The leaves seem like 'Marinka' too.
More stairs.
Another bushy tangle hangs down.
From the back you can see how big it is.
Up and up it goes. Where does it end? Who knows?
A further level. With a fuchsia arbor to pass through.
This is getting better than Indiana Jones.
Stopping a moment for a close-up exam of the arbor's blossoms.
And look. There's a secret shrine on the other side. How wonderful!
Yet more plants hanging down from yet another level.
Another close-up exam.
Hmm... Here there be monsteras! But I think
I've looped around again from another end?
Around another corner and up more stairs.
I'm thinking, "Just how high does this place go?" More!
Almost there. I think. I see. Ferns. Ne plus ultra?
On the penultimate landing, just when you think you've gotten all the way to the top
A final potted sentinal waits to the side!
Yup. This really is it now. This is as high as it gets. The stairs end
here and that's finally and clearly only native vegetation above. Wow.
After wandering slowly back down from the heights, I came across
the production area where row upon row of baskets were hanging.
With even more rows to the other side.
The gardeners were on break but, when they saw my interest, I was
generously invited inside the staff-only area for a close-up inspection.
They were only too happy to show off their handiwork.
Including the organically grown strawberries in the foreground.
According ot the gardener, these hanging fuchsia cultivars
were only recently imported into the Highlands from the Netherlands.
When I inquired about the name, though, I was helpfully told, “Bushier.” Ha ha.
There may be fuchsias in Malaysia but they’re all, all ever nameless!
It’s getting to be closing time so sadly it's now time to move on.
There’s a sales shop on the way out, though.
Fuchsias, as well as the other produce of the nursery, are available here.
I’ll have to return home with just pictures, though.
OK. One final fuchsia photo op.
Tempted, very tempted. Ten ringgits, as the Malaysian dollar
is now known, is only $3.20 / €2.50 / £2.00 at this moment.
A last glance over the shoulder
As the gates are pulled closed.
That’s it for Cactus Valley. Let’s call it a day and take up the Trail of the Fuchsia
again in the morning. A day’s worth of hunting has made us hungry. Dinnertime!
A new day dawns. Tanah Rata, the second of the Highlands’ three townships,
is located a bit further to the south. After Brinchang, it’s a sedate breath of fresh air.
The province’s administrative capital, it retains more of the older regional character
and is less obviously touristy and glitzy than its popular, hectic sibling to the north.
Of course, it also has a few delightful surprises
that size up the province's agricultural achievements.
The arcaded mall along the main road is much less full of
strawberry and more full of normal life. Sit, relax, have a coffee.
The local green market, as well, is simply a local green market.
Where you can find more delicious rambutans
for a snack. Just love the way they look. And taste.
Lots of other goods as well as. Some are decidedly aimed
at the kids in the crowd. Well, maybe not just for kids.
Along the arcades also sit window boxes full of red & white.
Full sun. But they’re still smiling to be here.
Just past Tanah Rata, not much further down the road to Ringlet, the third
major town of the Cameron Highlands, there's an actual tea plantation.
Its slopes are spread with tea bushes
but the plantation also has a large teahouse.
With a large souvenir shop next to it.
And a large bus parking lot on the road.
So it’s also a large tourist draw.
Especially on weekends.
Not many tea blossoms to be found at the moment, though.
But look closely when you do find one
and you can tell that tea is a camellia.
You can also get a few of the ubiquitous strawberry delights, along
with your tea, in case you missed picking something up in Brinchang.
Even the motorcycle club's determined not to be left out for an afternoon tea in the
Highlands. They seem to have skipped the strawberry paraphenalia part, thankfully.
Further south in Pahang State, nestled between seven peaks rising from 1,200
to 1,500 meters, is an old British hill station called Bukit Fraser, or Fraser’s Hill.
From the coastal lowlands,
a single road winds up and up.
Through pristine forests noted for their high levels of biodiversity.
Tree ferns and tall bamboo orchids,
With beautiful flowers nodding from the
tops of gracefully arching stalks, line the way.
Along with other plants, such as these gingers.
Finally, passing almost through the Gap,
a sign points the turn down the road to Fraser’s Hill.
The road is narrow and you follow it one way in,
and then loop one way out on the Gap’s other side.
The way is moody and beautiful but do make sure to get in before sunset,
as the mountain mists settle down to make the drive a bit difficult after dark.
Eventually, you hit a turn-about with choices, choices, choices
And head up, of course, on the wrong loop.
But all’s not lost as you could also accidently
stumble on potted fuchsias outside a secluded house.
With more peeking out at you from behind the garden wall.
At the center of Fraser’s Hill
In the center of the square, sits a clock tower.
Don’t just circle around and neglect to stop here.
Because in the garden to the side
More fuchsias are to be found.
Wonderful fuchsias. Faser's Hill is also incidentally well-known to bird watchers
and twitchers around the world for the spectacular diversity of its birds.
Finally, we weary wayfarers make it to the Olde Smokehouse.
Built by the British Red Cross in 1923 to provide cool mountain air for
convalescing patients in the British Army, the Olde Smokehouse is now a private inn.
The welcome here is a welcome one indeed.
Right next to the front door are potted planters
Filled with fuchsias.
And then, at the reception desk, water bowls full of
floating petals where, if you look closely,
Fuchsia blossoms also swim.
Checking out the dining room for dinner later, and then the lounge.
Relax. Sit back. Sip a Gin & Tonic, and wait to be called into the dining room
when dinner’s ready to be served. Sigh. I could so get used to this life at home!
There's a coutyard, on the way to the rooms in
the guesthouse, which is lined with potted plants,
Tended by the staff,
And it houses a stock plant for the gardener's fuchsia cuttings.
More fuchsias fill the bed raisd high along the opposite wall.
Freshly watered by the gardener.
As in the Cameron Highlands, they also grow
quite well in the cool mountain air at Fraser’s Hill.
Having successfully made it past the fuchsia gauntlet,
It’s time to check out the rooms.
And the view from the balcony. Blink, blink, blink.
I rub my eyes. Am I even in Malaysia?
The rooms themselves are marvelous,
with a distinctly Edwardian look and feel.
I wonder if this was, perhaps, even the original furniture?
I suspect, probably not, but it's nice to imagine it anyway.
Even the bathroom doesn't seem to have changed much
in ninety years. At least the look and feel of it, anyway.
Since there's still a bit of daylight left, it's an
opportunity check out the other courtyards and gardens.
Hello! More fuchsias crown these urns.
They're also set in raised beds.
They do add to the feeling that you might
actually be in the British countryside.
And not sitting in the hills just above the equator.
The combination of red fuchsias and blue plectranthus
Seems an ever-popular one here.
After checking out more of the inn's interiors,
It was back into the garden through the Sunroom.
Walking around the terrace, you had to be a little careful
because it seemed to be beetle migration season.
Wow. Now THAT’S a big beetle. I’m not even going mention the size of the centipede
that just scurried across the lawn. But it was almost as long as my foot! Ha ha.
It's early October here,
But the Azaleas are just coming into bloom!
Eventually the day's curtain starts to come down & it gets too dark to take many
more pictures. The inn faces west, so time to turn around & take in the sunset.
Blue mist shrouds the distant hills.
A moment of silence, please,
To listen to the rising orchestra of night-time sounds
coming from the hills and watch the sky flare up,
Then fall away to slowly silhouette
the tree ferns against the fading day.
Cactus Valley was Cactus Valley.
But this gentle place is truly the Lost Valley of Fuchsia-La.
Time for those Gin & Tonics. Goodnight!
That’s it for Malaysia. For fuchsias, anyway. In a few days, it’s on to further adventure but in steamy jungles and tropical islands. So we'll catch up next trip on the Trail of the Fuchsia.

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